Showing posts with label Herbs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Herbs. Show all posts

How To Grow Healthy Organic Herbs

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Herbs are such a wonderful gift from mother nature in so many ways. Their uses are many, including culinary; medicinal; household; cosmetic and craft. Not to mention their uses in the garden as companion plants and many can be used as activators in the compost heap.

And there’s no better way to delight in their pungent aromatic qualities than to grow them right outside your kitchen door.

Once you have a herb garden you will fall in love with them. Most herbs are fairly easy to grow. They don’t have to take up much space, Thyme or much of your time.

Herbs don’t suffer much from insect attack and they are not prone to disease problems. Most will survive even if quite neglected – but we want our herbs to grow healthy and vigorously to best serve us. So let’s look at creating the best conditions for your herb garden.

 

Where To Grow Your Herbs

If you are lucky enough to have plenty of room for a plot dedicated to growing herbs, then that’s great. A creative and practical way to grow herbs together is in a spiral. I like to interplant herbs throughout my garden, taking advantage of their wonderful Companion Planting benefits, as well as having the ones I use most in the kitchen close by for easy access.

Many herbs originate from the Mediterranean and prefer conditions suited to that climate. Such as hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Often the hotter the summer, the more aromatic the oils of the herb become.

Although most herbs will grow in partial shade, they will grow best if you choose a site with between 4 and 6 hours of sunlight per day.

The majority of herbs prefer a well-drained soil, but will cope with varying soil types. You can always improve your starting soil by adding organic matter, including compost and mulching. If your soil doesn’t drain well you might consider building raised beds or growing your herbs in containers.

Most herbs don’t require much in the way of fertilizers. Adding compost as a mulch with a layer of pea straw or similar over the top is enough to keep most herbs thriving.

Growing Your Herbs In Containers

Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow in containers. With some thought to position of the sun, you can grow them quite successfully on patios, balconies, terraces and verandas. This way you can quite literally have them at your back door – or even in your window sill.

Container growing is particularly useful if you live in a very cold winter climate, so that you can over-winter your herbs in containers indoors.

It’s also a great way to grow some of the herbs you use regularly if you’re renting. When you leave you just take your herb containers with you!

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You can choose pretty much any container to grow herbs in. You could get quite creative with your container as long as it has enough drainage and is not something that may have any toxic residue. But if you’re not all that creative there are custom planters, large shallow pots that allow several types of herbs to grow together, strawberry pots and window boxes – and I’m sure there are many more options to choose from.

Smaller herbs are going to be the best choice for container plants. You might be surprised at how many types of herbs would be happy growing together in the same pot.

Choosing slow growing herbs will mean that you won’t have to keep them tidy. Snipping what you want for dinner will keep them compact and bushy. Always select healthy herbs to give them the best start. Remove any dead or diseased leaves to keep them healthy.

When potting them up into their container remember that they’ll be there for a while, so choose a good, well drained potting mix. Because most herbs don’t need a lot of fertilizer, choose a potting mix without added fertilizer. Container plants require more attention to watering needs as they will dry out much faster than plants in the ground. On hot, dry days you may need to water small containers twice a day.

Seasonal Care

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Keeping weeds out of your herb garden and watering well during summer are the two main requirements to keeping your established herbs healthy. Mulching will be a big help with both of these tasks. This will also help keep your herb roots cool. Apply a thick layer of mulch – about 3 or 4 inches / 8-10 cm to be effective. If you live in an area with severe winters you will need to over-winter some herbs or treat them as annuals and plant new plants in spring.

Golden Oregano

If some of your herb plants start to get “leggy” trim them almost back to ground level at the end of summer. Herbs that will benefit from this include: oregano, marjoram, all the mints, yarrow, lemon balm.

Some of the more shrub-like herbs just need trimming back to encourage bushy growth, such as rosemary, lemon verbena and lavender.

And some herbs should be treated as annuals – in other words pull them up after the main growing season and plant fresh plants next growing season. These include basil, dill, chervil, borage, coriander, cumin.

You will benefit greatly by including herbs in your organic garden. They offer so much, yet ask so little.

Some herbs are best treated as groundcovers, some make delightful edging plants, but I prefer to grow most of my herbs amongst other plants. They truly come into their own when their beauty and aromas can be experienced intimately and often.

Perennial Herbs

Credit to : blog.yourgardeningtools.com

Bay Leaf Tree - Laurus nobilis

The bay Leaf has long been used for cooking and was a holy tree for the Greeks and Romans. Bay trees grow into a small evergreen tree or bush up to 10 m (30 ft) high and up to 6 m (18 ft) wide. Their creamy white scented flowers appear in May. The flowers are followed by black berries which arenotused for cooking.

Cooking With Bay Leaves

The aromatic flavour of Bay leaves is used to round off soups and gravies, fish and meat dishes or to marinate venison. It is also an ingredient that can't be missed when pickling the likes of cucumbers or onions.

Add the whole leaf while cooking and remove it before serving. You can use dried or fresh leaves.

How to Grow Bay Leaf Plants

Being of Mediterranean origin bay trees like well drained soils. Avoid places that are exposed to cold, drying winds. The bay laurel is hardy to -10 C/14 F for short periods so they might not be suitable for areas with very harsh winters. Sun or part shade is ideal for a Bay Leaf plant.

Bay leaf trees can successfully be grown in containers for years and years. Mature plants of course need a large container which can be a problem if you have to shift the containers into a sheltered place for the winter. They can be shaped easily into either pyramids or ball shapes. Trim them in late summer and of course use the clippings for drying.

Allow young trees to grow and build up strength before you start using the leaves or shaping it. Otherwise the plant will be stunted and grows very slowly.

Tips :

Never let your Bay tree go too dry for a prolonged time. Once the leaves have withered the plant will die! So remember to water your plant at least twice a week. Large plants in small containers might need more regular checking during the hot summer months.

Overwintering

If you live in a very cold climate (below -10 C/14 F for a long period) you have to overwinter your bay tree somewhere inside. The place for this should not be too warm, maximum up to 15 C/60 F.

Choose a bright place with lots of light. An unheated stairwell, cool conservatory or glasshouse is ideal. Reduce the watering to once a month.

Harvesting And Preserving

You can harvest the leaves any time you need them. There is no need to dry them before using them although some people claim that the flavour is better if you do so. I use them both ways. If I run out of dried ones I just use the fresh ones. Best time to collect loads of the leaves is of course when you trim your bay tree.

Dry the leaves individually on a tray in a shaded but warm place. Once they are dry store them in an airtight container. You can also tie some branches into little bunches and hang them upside down until they are dry.

Pests and Diseases

Scale Insects can be a real problem particularly if you keep your bay tree inside. This pest is difficult to treat successfully because you always miss a few of the little buggers and it starts all over again. They sit on the underside of the leaves, on top and on the branches. Look out for brown little scales that sit near the centre rib of the leaves and on the stems.

The best way to get rid of them is to spray the whole plant thoroughly from top to bottom with an organic pest spray that contains fatty acids. Then follow up with beneficial insects. They will kill the ones that you have missed.

The problem with a scale insect infestation is that you will get a black fungus growing on the sugar that the scales excrete. This is a sure sign that you are dealing with scale insects. Leaves that are covered with a sticky layer of fungus are not very appetizing.

Quick Guide

Position:sun to part shade

Watering:water regularly

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:from cuttings

Cooking:add leaves while cooking

Preserving:dry

 

Chives - Allium shoenoprasum

This herb is known by many and is a must-have! Chives are probably one of the easiest herbs to grow and they are very popular for their versatility in the kitchen.

Cooking With Chives

The spicy onion like flavour is great to enhance soups, soft cheeses, omelettes, pancakes or potato dishes. It is best added after cooking. The pretty pink flowers are also edible. Sprinkle them into salads, soups or use them as decorations.

How To Grow Chives

This perennial herb can be grown in the garden or in pots or window boxes. Choose a spot in sun or part shade that is not too dry.

You can grow chives from seed or buy it in pots at your local garden centre. You also often see pots of chives offered in supermarkets. Keep them on the window sill for a while and plant them out when they go tired. You can also pot them into a bigger container if you have no outdoor space.

Give the plant some time to recover before you start harvesting again. If you like to use a lot of chives it is best to have several Chive plants so as to have some you are using and others that are re-growing in parallel.

Growing Chives from seed is a very cheap way to produce a lot of plants and it grows easily and reasonably quickly too.

Tips :

Sow the seeds close together so as you end up with a dense chives plant. Await harvesting until the plant is strong. If you harvest too soon the plant will die. Cut off only half of the length and wait until they re-grow before taking from them again.

Another way to propagate chives is to split existing clumps. Do that either in the spring or autumn. Lift up the clump or take it out of its container. Separate it into clumps of 12-15 bulbs and replant them.

Chives like a bit richer soil than most other herbs so add some compost. Feed the plants regularly with some organic plant food particularly if you grow them in a pot.

How to grow chives in the winter

Chives are a great herb to grow inside on the window sill. It will keep you supplied with fresh Chives all winter. Lift some Chives up from the garden in the autumn. Let the bulbs dry off for minimum 4 weeks. Replant them into a pot and bring them inside. They will start growing again after a short time. Put it back into the garden once the plant goes tired.

Harvesting And Preserving

If you have surplus chives you can easily freeze them. Wash and chop the chives, fill them into sealable containers and put in your freezer. You can now take as much as you need out of the containers when you are cooking. Allow a few minutes for defrosting for salad dressings.

Garlic Chives

If you like a bit of variation try garlic chives. This is a cross of chives and garlic and they have a mild garlic flavour. You use and grow them the same as Chives. They add a nice bit of garlic flavour to your salad bowl and are great in cottage or cream cheese.

Quick Guide

Position:sun to part shade

Watering:keep moist but not wet

Feeding:every 10 days

Propagation:from seed or division

Cooking:add after cooking

Preserving:freeze

 

Lemon Balm - Melissa officinalis

This hardy perennial herb has been in cultivation for over 2000 years. Lemon balm grows to about 2 feet high and 1 1/2 feet wide. They produce lots of leaves. One plant is usually enough for a family. The small white flowers that appear during the summer are great for bees.

If you like a splash of colour try the golden leafed forms Melissa officinalis 'Aurea' or 'Allgold'. These varieties are best planted in part shade.

Cooking With Lemon Balm

The lemon scented leaves are used for teas or to flavour soups, salads, herb sauces, fish and rice. It is best added after cooking. Crush the leaves to release their entire aroma.

How To Grow Lemon Balm

The plant likes a well drained soil that can be on the poor side. Important is to plant it in a sunny spot as it likes full sun. Add some compost once a year if you grow them in the ground. For pots use an organic liquid fertilizer every two weeks for the growing season.

If the plants go tatty and tired looking during the summer don't hesitate to cut them down to the ground. They will re-grow quickly with nice fresh foliage.

Choose a big container if you plan to grow Lemon Balm on a patio because the plants can grow quite large. It is also better to grow it on its own in a pot. It is probably not the most decorative herb but you will soon love it for its delicate lemon scent that it releases in the sun.

Lemon Balm plants are very hardy and can be overwintered outside. Just cut all the stems back to the ground and you are done.

Growing Lemon Balm Indoors:Lemon Balm plants are real sun lovers so put it on a south facing window sill. You can harvest the lemon scented leaves from spring until the autumn.

Overwintering Inside:The plant needs a rest period in the winter. It will die down in the autumn. The best way to overwinter Lemon Balm is to cut it right back to the ground and store in a cool room until the spring. You can keep it in a dark room. Water it a little bit maybe once a month to prevent it from completely drying out.

Bring the plant to a bright place again in March and start watering it regularly. It will start growing again soon. This is also the time to pot it up or split it. If it is a mature plant it would benefit from being split because they can get pot-bound quickly

Take it out of its pot and remove any loose soil. Cut it into several pieces. A bread knife is great for this job. A mature plant can easily be cut into 3 or 4 pieces. Replant the pieces into individual containers with fresh potting soil and water them in well. Plant surplus pieces into the garden or give them to a neighbour or friend.

Harvesting And Preserving

Take the soft young leaves and shoots for cooking or teas. They can be picked from late spring until the autumn. Use the fresh leaves whenever you can. Preserve them for the winter through drying or freezing.

Quick Guide

Position:sunny

Watering:little

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:division

Cooking:add after cooking

Preserving:freeze or dry

 

Lovage - Levisticum officinale

This herb always reminds me of my grandmother. She always had lots of it growing in her garden and I remember being fascinated by its very intense flavour and scent. It would remind you a bit of celery.

Lovage is a perennial herb and can grow for many years in a garden. It prefers a richer soil than most other herbs and can be added to a herbaceous border. Lovage will grow up 5 ft high and gets very bushy. It produces a greenish yellow flower during the summer.

Cooking With Lovage

The flavour of Lovage leaves is very strong and dominating. You need very little of it and one plant is definitely enough for a family...and maybe the neighbours. You can use it for soups, salads and stews either cooked or raw.

Growing Lovage from seed is a bit difficult and wouldn't be worth it. It is easier to buy a plant or maybe you have a nice neighbour that will give you a piece of a plant. To propagate Lovage split the root-ball in the spring.

How To Grow Lovage

Lovage likes a rich soil so add plenty of compost or an organic fertilizer to the soil. Plants in pots need to be fertilized regularly with a liquid fertilizer and regular watering is a must. Plant them in the sun. Part shade will also be tolerated.

Cutting the plant back after flowering will produce nice new foliage. If you want to use the seeds let them develop before you cut the plant back. You can use the leaves and seeds for a tea that will help with digestive problems and bloating.

Container Growing

Choose a large, deep pot for them and don't mix them with other herbs. Lovage does not make a good companion plant because of the strong smell that it also excretes through the roots.

Lovage needs a rest during the winter. Let the stems die back and cut them off in late autumn. Then store the pot in a cool place until spring.

In March you can prepare the plant for the next season by re-potting it with fresh soil. Start watering it regularly and you will soon be rewarded with tasty fresh leaves. Split the plant every third season to keep it from going too large.

Harvesting And Preserving

You can harvest the fresh leaves from late spring until the autumn. Preserve the leaves through drying or freezing. You can also make an aromatic herb salt with chopped Lovage leaves.

Warning:Don't use Lovage if you are pregnant!

Quick Guide

Position:sun to part shade

Watering:regularly

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:division

Cooking:cooked or fresh

Preserving:freeze or dry

 

Marjoram And Oregano - Origanum

I decided to group Marjoram and Oregano together because they are so similar and closely related. Often there are varieties that are crosses between the two so that makes it hard to keep the two apart. They both belong to the same species.

There are many cultivated varieties. Very decorative and also useful in the kitchen are for example the Golden Marjoram (O. vulgare 'Aureum Crispum') or the gold tipped Oregano (O. vulgare 'Gold Variegated').

Cooking With Oregano And Marjoram

Both are used a lot for Mediterranean cooking, Pizzas, Soups, meat and cheese dishes. Add the chopped leaves to your dishes while cooking.

Origanum vulgare is the common Oreganowith a spicy and intense flavour.

It is perennial and overwinters well if covered with a layer of leaves. If you live in a very cold area you can bring it in and over winter it in a cool dark room. Oregano dies off for the winter so cut it back to ground level in late autumn.

Oregano has lovely pink flowers during the summer and attracts lots of bees and butterflies with them.

Origanum majoranaor Marjoramhas a milder and sweeter flavour than Oregano. Marjoram is not cold tolerant or frost hardy and is often treated as an annual. If you grow it in a container try over-wintering it indoors in a cool but bright place.

How To Grow Oregano and Marjoram

Both varieties like a dry, slightly alkaline soil with good drainage. Plant them in full sun for the best flavour. Ideal are slopes, rockeries or on top of walls.

Container Growing

They both grow very well in containers. Try them in pots, window boxes or hanging baskets. You can combine them with other Mediterranean herbs like Sage, Thyme or Rosemary.

If you grow them inside choose a south facing window sill for best results. The same applies outside: they love the sun!

Let the plants dry off in between the watering. They don't like wet soil and start rooting if you are not careful. Add some organic plant food to the water once or twice a month during spring and summer.

Marjoram and Oregano can be grown from seed successfully but you would only do this if you need a lot of plants. It is easier to buy a couple of plants in the beginning. If you have some mature plants you can propagate them by splitting them in early spring.

Harvesting And Preserving

Harvest the leaves and tips from late spring until the autumn. Cutting back parts of the plants during the summer will ensure that young shoots with nice foliage will be produced. You can also use the flowers for cooking.

Marjoram and Oregano can be preserved by freezing or drying. You can also use them to flavour oil together with Rosemary, Sage and Thyme. Air tight containers are best for storing the dried herbs.

Quick Guide

Position:sunny

Watering:regularly

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:division

Cooking:cooked

Preserving:freeze or dry, in oil

 

Mint - Mentha piperata

Mint is another easy to grow perennial herb. Some gardeners might be cursing it because it can get quite invasive if it likes a place. To avoid that, plant it into a container or into a garden area where it can be allowed to spread. If you want to plant it into the ground use a bucket without the bottom to restrict it from travelling.

Cooking With Mint

Mint has many uses in the kitchen. Add it to lamb, summer drinks, teas and salad dressing. Mint sauce of course would not exist without it. You can use mint fresh or cooked.

There are lots of mints available with different scents and flavours and if you like them you can build up a nice little collection. Here are some varieties for you to try:

Maroccan Mint(M. Spicata 'Maroccan') - great for Mint sauce and drinks

Peppermint(M. x Piperata var.Piperata) - you can get this one also with curly leaves

Eau-De-Cologne Mint(M. x piperata var. citrata) - reddish leaves

Apple Mint(M. suaveolens) - nice apple scent

Bowles Mint(M. x rotundifolia 'Bowles') - has hairy leaves and is great with new potatoes

Ginger Mint(M. x gracilis) - nice ginger flavour, also available in a variegated form

Mints are a nice addition for the herb garden. You can get them in many varieties with different coloured foliage. The nice pale pink flowers are a real bonus.

Mint plants are best bought from a garden centre or nursery because most of them are hybrids and won't come true from seed. They also multiply and grow fairly fast so there is no need to have a load of plants.

How To Grow Mint

Mint likes a well drained soil that does keep some moisture during the summer. In very dry soils they get weak and you can get problems with rust and mildew. The soil should be rich so add plenty of compost.

Cut part of the shoots back during the summer to encourage fresh growth with new leaves. These will be more tender than the older leaves.

Choose a spot in the sun to part shade for your mint plants. Their flavour will be better in a sunny place.

Container Growing: Choose a large sized container or bowl for mint. The more vigorous varieties of mint are best grown on their own.

Cut the plants back to the ground before over-wintering the pots in a cool place. Mature plants should either be re-potted or split in the spring.

You can propagate mint by taking off runners or splitting the plant in early spring before the growth starts.

Harvesting And Preserving

Harvest the tips of the shoots with the young leaves. They are more tender than the leaves at the bottom of the shoots. You can dry or freeze the leaves.

Warning:Babies and toddlers don't tolerate Mint well!

 

Quick Guide

Position:sun to part shade

Watering:regularly

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:division

Cooking:cooked or fresh

Preserving:freeze or dry

 

Rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis

This is definitely one of my favourite herbs. If you like to cook Italian food you just can't be without it. It is a nice evergreen herb that can easily be grown in a container in a sunny spot on a patio or balcony. The pretty blue flowers that open along the twigs in the spring cover the whole bush and are a great feed for bees.

There are many different varieties available. You can get white, pale pink or blue flowering ones. A very interesting one is the creeping Rosemary (R. prostratus) that will hang down walls or large containers. The leaves are a bit smaller but still very useful in the kitchen. Rosmarinus o. 'BBQ' has nice broad leaves on an upright bush with blue flowers.

Cooking With Rosemary

You can use Rosemary for all Mediterranean cooking, roasted meats, lamb, chicken, pasta, tomato dishes and vegetables. Add it to the dishes while cooking to get the full benefit of it. You can also sprinkle it into the fire if you have a barbeque.

If you don't like chewing on the 'needles' you can use whole Rosemary twigs and remove them after cooking. Alternatively you can use a grinder for dried Rosemary.

How To Grow Rosemary

Rosemary likes a slightly alkaline soil that is well drained. It should not be too rich or heavy. If you grow it in the ground you should plant it into a raised bed, slope or a rockery in full sun.

Growing Rosemary from seed is doable but you have to have a lot of patience. It could take up to 3 years before you have a plant that is big enough to harvest from. It is a lot easier to buy a couple of plants and pot them into a nice container or into the ground.

You can take cuttings from your mature plants. Once your plants are over 5 years old they will start to go slow and produce less. You should replace them with new ones.

Rosemary is not very frost hardy and will only tolerate temperatures down to 23 F/-5 C. If the temperature is going below that it is safer to over-winter it inside in a cool but bright place. You can bring it out again once the frost has passed.

Container Growing:Feed plants in containers about once or twice a month with some organic plant food. Plants in the ground should not need any feeding. Regular watering is also important for containerized Rosemary.

The ideal potting soil mix for Rosemary contains some small pebbles or sand and a little bit of lime. It won't tolerate waterlogged conditions for a very long time. This is often the cause of failure with Rosemary.

A round or square planter will be better than a window box or shallow bowl because a Rosemary will grow into a sizeable bush.

You can combine Rosemary with other herbs like Thyme or Marjoram. Small flowers like Violas, Pansies or some Alpines can spruce up a pot with an individual Rosemary plant in the centre.

Harvesting And Preserving

Rosemary can be harvested all year round. Pick the young shoots and tips and you can shape your plant that way. If you take too much your plant will go stunted and too tired. Give it some time to re-cover. You should also reduce the harvesting during the winter because they are not growing actively.

If you are like me and use a lot of Rosemary you better have several plants so you can give them a rest every now and again. If you have surplus Rosemary you can dry or freeze it.

 

Quick Guide

Position:sunny

Watering:keep moist

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:cuttings

Cooking:cooked or fresh

Preserving:freeze or dry, in oil

 

Sage - Salvia officinalis

This evergreen herb forms a nice shrub that produces pretty purple flowers during the summer. This is a very decorative herb to add to your container herb garden. Choose a nice large pot and you will have a real looker! A good sized container is important because Sage will reach a size of two foot high and wide fairly quickly.

Also colourful and attractive are the purple and the tricolor Sage (Salvia o. 'Purpurascens' and 'Tricolor'). Another good choice is the variegated Sage (Salvia o. 'Icterina') with golden variegated leaves. They are a great choice for large mixed herb containers because of their attractive foliage and of course they are edible too.

Cooking With Sage

The elongated silvery leaves are great for Mediterranean dishes, pasta, meat or teas. Try frying some fresh leaves in a bit of butter for ravioli or gnocchi and top with Parmesan cheese. You can use the leaves fresh or dried.

How To Grow Sage

If you want to grow Sage in the ground choose a really well drained spot in full sun. In areas with wet winters it is a good idea to mix in some sand and gravel to ensure that the water can run off quickly.

Container Growing

Mixing some sand into your potting soil if you grow Sage in a container will ensure that the soil drains well and the roots are protected from rotting.

Feed potted Sage plants about once a month from spring until late summer. Plants that have outgrown their containers should be re-potted in the spring.

You will get the best flavour out of your Sage leaves if you plant them in the sunniest spot you have. If you grow it indoors choose a south facing window sill.

Sage can be grown from seeds but the coloured varieties have to be propagated from cuttings. If you are impatient like me you will buy a plant from a garden centre. Most people have enough in one Sage plant because of the size it grows to. There is enough supply in one good sized plant for one family so growing from seed is hardly worth it.

Sage benefits from being pruned lightly after flowering. Large plants can be pruned in the spring or in late summer.

Should winter temperatures drop below -10 C/14 F cover your Sage plant with some bubble wrap toprotect it from frost damage. In very cold areas with prolonged frost periods you are better off to over-winter it in a cool but bright spot.

Harvesting And Preserving Sage

You will have plenty of leaves to dry when you are cutting back your Sage plant. Spread the leaves onto a tray and dry them in a warm shaded place until they are dry. Store them in airtight containers and crunch them up before using them.

You can harvest Sage all year round but the flavour will of course be more intense during the hot summer months. Just pick the leaves as you need them. The more tender leaves from the younger shoots are nicer than the older ones at the bottom!

 

Quick Guide

Position:sunny

Watering:dry, not wet!

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:cuttings

Cooking:cooked

Preserving:freeze or dry, in oil

 

Tarragon - Artemisia dracunculus

Be careful when buying Tarragon plants because there are two varieties of it with quite different flavours.

The French Tarragon(A. dracunculus) is more aromatic but less cold tolerant. Often the flowers don't open and the plants won't produce seeds particularly if summer temperatures are low.

It can only be propagated from root cuttings and runners. Take some of the runners and put them into pots during September. Over-winter the pots indoors near a bright window.

Don't be tempted to harvest too soon from the young plants. Give them time to establish. Come spring you will have strong new plants that will keep you supplied for the season.

Take potted plants indoors if you live in a cold area. Keep them in a bright place so you can keep harvesting fresh Tarragon leaves.

The Russian Tarragon(A. dracunculus ssp. dracunculoides) is less aromatic but much more tolerant to frost and cold weather. This variety is also more vigorous and can grow up to 5 ft high. You can easily propagate this Tarragon from seeds in the spring. Sow the seeds inside in the spring and transplant the well rooted seedlings into large pots or into the ground.

Cooking With Tarragon

Tarragon is used for salads, fish, chicken, soups and fines herbes (French herb mixture). It is best added after cooking. If you add it too soon the flavour is going to be destroyed. Tarragon is also great to flavour vinegar. Buy a good cider or wine vinegar for this.

How To Grow Tarragon

Tarragon is easy to grow. It likes a bright spot with good drainage and fertile soil. Cut plants back to ground level in the autumn. Protect the plants from heavy frosts by covering them up with leaves or branches. Plants last usually 4-5 years before they go tired. Replace them in time with a new one.

Container Growing

Choose large planters for Tarragon. The plants grow big and need a lot of room. Place the pots in a very bright place. In front of a sunny wall is the perfect place for Tarragon.

Tarragon needs more fertilizer than most other herbs. Feed them every 10 days during the growing season with some liquid organic plant food.

Water the pots liberally during dry weather. Make sure that the soil is never waterlogged or too wet.

Harvesting And Preserving

You can harvest Tarragon leaves nearly all year round from plants grown indoors. The plants will go tired much quicker than plants grown in the ground and need to be replaced in the spring. Plants grown outside will die off for the winter. The leaves that are cut off in the autumn can be used to flavour vinegar. Freeze any surplus leaves in ice cube trays or in freezer bags.

 

Quick Guide

Position:sunny

Watering:regularly but not too wet

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:division, seeds

Cooking:add after cooking

Preserving:freeze, in vinegar

 

Thyme - Thymus vulgaris

Thyme is probably one of the most popular herbs for cooking and if you have ever used fresh Thyme for a chicken dish you know why. The flavour of fresh Thyme leaves is quite different to the dried ones. If you want the real Thyme flavour you must grow a few plants for fresh leaves.

Growing Thyme is easy and does not even take up a lot of room. This is a herb that can be grown in a hanging basket, wall mounted container or window box without any trouble.

This evergreen little shrub reaches a height and width of only a foot. Small pink and alsoedibleflowers appear in early summer.

Cooking With Thyme

There are numerous varieties of Thymes with different exotic flavours like lemon or orange. There are also creeping varieties but a lot of them have no flavour and are not suitable for cooking.

Here are some good varieties for the kitchen:

Thymus vulgaris- this is the regular Thyme. It is great for all Mediterranean cooking, stews, lamb, pasta and venison.

Thymus v. 'Silver Posie'- a silver leafed Thyme with good flavour

Thymus x citriodorus(Lemon Thyme) - this one has a strong lemon flavour which is great with chicken, lamb or fish dishes.

Thymus x c. 'Silver Queen'- a variegated leafed Lemon Thyme

How To Grow Thyme

This is another Mediterranean herb that needs a lot of sun and really good drainage to perform well. If you grow it in the garden plant it into a rockery or on top of a wall in full sun. Some sand and gravel mixed in will help if your soil is heavy.

Container Growing:Add some pebbles or sand into your soil mixture and some lime for growing in containers. Thyme can be planted into window boxes or bowls together with other small herbs or flowers. The plants that you combine Thyme with have to be able to stand dry conditions because that is what this plant likes.

Thyme needs little feeding. Use a liquid organic fertilizer for your potted Thyme once or twice a month during the growing season.

Potted plants should be taken indoors in the winter if you have severe frost over a long period.

You can propagate Thyme with cuttings taken during the summer or from seeds. The cultivated forms though have to be propagated from cuttings.

Keep your plants bushy and compact by cutting a third of them in early autumn. The pruned cuttings should of course be used for drying.

Harvesting And Preserving

You can harvest Thyme nearly all year round. Pick the soft shoots or small branches. That also helps to keep the plant neat and bushy. You can keep harvesting while the plant flowers and use the flowers as well.

What you trim back in the autumn can either be dried or frozen. Thyme can also be used to flavour oil or vinegar.

Quick Guide

Position:sunny

Watering:slighly moist

Feeding:every 2 weeks

Propagation:cuttings, seeds

Cooking:cooked

Preserving:freeze or dry

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Make Your Herb Garden Attractive

A lot of people think that a herb garden is 'only' useful but not pretty. I think that this is very wrong. You can make a container herb garden attractive and colourful. A herb garden on a patio can be a nice relaxing place that stimulates all your senses.

Different herb plants have a variety of textures and foliage colours and some of them of course have the added bonus of flowers. Yes...sometimes you have to take a closer look. The beauty is often in the detail and more subtle. After all herbs are not like Petunias or Geraniums that shout at you from the distance desperately looking for attention.

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The art is to play with different combinations of plants, containers and accessories. You can get very creative when it comes to this. For example an old chair that you picked up ages ago at a garage sale can be painted in a nice colour and used as a plant stand.

There are loads of great looking containers available today. My favourites would be terracotta or wooden pots.

Lots of things can be turned into unusual plant containers like old watering cans, baskets or wooden boxes. Just make sure that they have drainage. If necessary drill some holes into the bottom.

Things like that add uniqueness and character to your herb garden.

 

Add some colour with flowers...

Edible flowers like Nasturtiums or Calendula can add dots of colour to your herb garden.

Some commonly used container flowers like Petunias or Geraniums are 'too loud' for combining them with herbs. Also their needs for care and feeding make them not a good choice as herb companions. You want plants that have similar needs. Alpines like Campanulas, Thrift, Dianthus, Bellis or Aubretia fall into this category.

My favourite choices for flowers that combine well with a culinary herb garden are Lavender, Violas, Alyssum, Pansies, Primroses, Echinacea, Coreopsis and Peruvian Lilies. You can have them in separate pots or plant up combinations.

Here are some herb and flower combinations for you to try:

For a 60 cm Window Box:

  • 2 pots of Chives
  • 2 Calendula Plants
  • 4 small Alyssum Plants
  • 2 Viola Plants

For 60 cm Round Pot

  • 1 Rosemary plant (should be a good sized specimen)
  • 2 Pansies
  • 3 Alyssum
  • 2 Alpine Strawberries

Put the Rosemary in the centre of the pot and arrange the other plants around it. You can also do the same with a Sage or Bay Leaf.

For a 60 cm Hanging Basket

  • 1 Lemon Thyme
  • 1 Regular Thyme
  • 1 Alpine Strawberry
  • 1 Alyssum
  • 1 Viola

Arrange the Thyme more to the centre of the basket and the other plants around the edges.

For a 90 cm Trough 30-40cm deep

  • 1 Sage (try a purple or tricolor one)
  • 1 Prostrate Rosemary (Rosmarinus prostratus)
  • 1 Oregano
  • 2 Thyme
  • 2 Aubretia
  • 2 Bellis
  • 2 Campanula (try either 'Blue Clips' or C. garganica)

Arrange the Sage in the centre and the Rosemary and Oregano on the ends. Fill the gaps with the Thyme and the flowers.

Harvesting And Preserving Herbs (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 8)

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Once you are used to having fresh herbs available for cooking all the time you will want to make sure that you have a supply ready for the winter months. Even if you grow herbs only in a small scale you will be surprised how much of them you can save.

You might also have surplus herbs during the summer that will go to waste if you don’t preserve them for later use.

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Harvesting Your Herbs

Allow young plants to build up and grow to a good size before you start taking anything off them. If you start harvesting too soon you will weaken the plants and they will grow and mature very slowly. Being patient and waiting will pay off in the long run.

Never take all the shoots off a plant unless you plan on discarding it afterwards. Herbs like Basil, Savory or Oregano will re-grow again if you cut them down to a height of 3-4 inches.

Tips :

Harvest your herbs carefully without damaging or crushing the foliage. This will ensure that the flavour stays at its best. Use a sharp knife or a pair of small scissors for this. Also important is to process your herbs immediately afterwards. Don't leave them lying around for hours.

Take only the young, soft shoots off the top from herbs like Tarragon, Mint or Lovage. Lemon Balm, Oregano and Mint will benefit and grow fresh new shoots if you remove some of the branches at ground level.

From woody herbs like Rosemary, Thyme or Sage you should never take more than one third off a shoot. If you cut too low into the woody part the plants might not recover from it.

The best harvest time for harvesting herbs is aroundnoonafter the plants have dried up. Choose a sunny day for it. The essential oils in the plants that give the flavour will be very high and you will have the best quality.

 

Prepare the herbs for preserving : shake the herbs a bit to get rid of insects and other creepy-crawlies. Check also the undersides of the leaves. Wash the herbs only if they are dirty and dry them off well afterwards on a clean towel.

There are several different ways to preserve herbs depending on which one you are preserving.

You can dry, freeze, salt or marinate herbs to preserve their flavour. It depends on the type of herbs and your personal preference which way you choose.

Here are my suggestions:

  • Basil : freeze, marinate in oil, pesto
  • Bay Leaf:dry
  • Chervil:freeze
  • Chives:freeze
  • Dill:Marinate in vinegar or freeze, seeds can be dried
  • Lemon Balm:dry or freeze
  • Lovage:dry, freeze or as herb salt
  • Marjoram:dry, marinate in oil
  • Mint:dry or freeze
  • Oregano:dry or freeze
  • Parsley:dry, freeze or as herb salt
  • Rosemary:dry but can be harvested all year round
  • Sage:dry
  • Savory:dry or freeze
  • Tarragon:marinate in vinegar or freeze
  • Thyme:dry or freeze
  • Drying Herbs

This is probably the oldest method of preserving herbs. It is also easy to do.

For air-drying tie your herbs into a small bunches and hang them upside down in shaded but airy place. Just remember that the kitchen is not a good place for this because of steam and grease in the air from cooking. Individual leaves can be dried on sheets or towels in a shaded but warm place.

Once they have dried you can crush them up and store them in airtight containers.

If you don't have a suitable place for air-drying you can also use your oven or dehydrator. Place them onto a sheet or rack and heat your oven up to 50 C/122 F. It is important to leave the oven door open a little bit so the moisture can evaporate. Your herbs should keep a nice green colour. If they turn grey or brown the oven was too hot or they were in there for too long. This would impact on the flavour of course so keep a close eye on them.

The time in the oven varies depending on the moisture content and the type of herbs you are drying. It is best to do only one variety at a time to have an even result.

 

Freezing Herbs

Freezing is my preferred method of preserving herbs because it is so easy and quick. You can freeze them in small portions and just take out what you need when you are cooking.

Frozen herbs can just be added to your dishes while you are cooking. The only time you may want to defrost them before using them is when you do something like salad dressings.

 

Using Ice cube Trays

Ice cube trays are very useful for freezing herbs. Chop the herbs and portion them into the tray. Put a little bit of water in it just to cover the herbs and pop them into the freezer. After freezing remove them from the ice cube tray and put them into a Ziploc bag. This makes using them so easy and you will have dishes that taste of summer in the middle of winter!

Tips :

Make your own herb mixes for freezing. For example if you like cooking tomato sauces with herbs make a mixture of Sage, Thyme, Rosemary and Oregano and freeze them in the ice cube tray. You now only have to take one cube out of the freezer to have a great tasting pasta sauce.

Basil is best frozen individually because it should be added after cooking. If you cook basil it completely loses its flavour.

Freezing Herbs In Plastic Bags

This is another very easy way to preserve your herbs for the winter particularly if you are under time pressure. The nice part about it is that you can place the twigs and all into the freezer bag. After freezing just crush the herbs with your hand and remove the twigs. You can now either leave them in the bag or put them into plastic containers into the freezer.

 

Marinating Herbs in Oil Or Vinegar

Buy a good quality vinegar or olive oil for this method. The best vinegars to use are cider or wine vinegar. If you use some nice decorative bottles this even makes a nice present!

The herbs flavour the oil or vinegar which can be used for salad dressings. The oil can also be used in cooking.

Pick some nice looking twigs and wash them carefully. Dry them well before placing them into the bottles and fill them up with the oil or vinegar. Important is to cover the herbs completely so they are not exposed to air. Once you start using the oil or vinegar remove the herbs from the bottle or keep it topped up.

To make the oil even more flavoursome you can add garlic cloves, chilies and peppercorns.

Place the vinegar bottles for two weeks on a sunny window sill before using them. The oil has to be kept for four weeks in a warm place to take up the aroma from the herbs.

 

Salting Herbs

For salting herbs you need a wide, sealable container and a good quality sea salt. Parsley and Lovage are great herbs for producing a herb salt that will keep for up to two years. You can use this salt instead of regular salt for cooking.

How to make herb salt

Wash and dry your herbs. Then chop them and layer with the salt into the container. Tap down each layer with a spoon. Use one part of salt to five parts of herbs.

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Dealing With Pests And Diseases (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 7)

Although herbs are pretty tough plants they can get affected by bugs and diseases. And nothing will put you off more than greenflies and other creepy-crawlies on herbs that you want to eat. The best prevention of pests is to keep your plants healthy and vigorous but there will be occasions when you will discover unwanted creatures on your plants.

Healthy strong plants are not attacked as easily because their cells are tougher. The bugs will try to find an easier victim. So it pays to mind your herbs well and make sure that feeding and watering is optimized. Don't get discouraged by failures...we all live and learn. Just persist and try again. You can't beat experience!

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Keep checking for pests...

Often pests go unnoticed for a longer period and build up a big population. Make it a habit to check your plants closely particularly the undersides of the leaves. At the early stages of an infestation you might be able to just remove the pests or some infected shoots before they spread everywhere.

The most common pests to look out for are greenflies, blackflies, scale insects and some caterpillars.

Organic Ways To Treat Pests

Spraying with chemicals is not really an option when growing herbs for consumption. The best is to find organic ways to deal with the problem.

Depending on the plant the easiest thing to do is to get rid of it. I know that this might sound harsh but some plants particularly some annual herbs are simply not worth the time and effort. Just start new ones from seed and get rid of the infected ones before they spread the pests onto all your other plants!

Your more valuable perennial herbs of course you don't want to throw away. You can treat pests like greenflies or scale insects with organic sprays that contain fatty acids or pyrethrin. These organic sprays kill insects but you have to make sure to hit all the pests. Make sure to reach the undersides of the leaves as well as the stems of the plants. After treating your plants it might be better to wait for a couple of weeks before you use them to make sure that the sprays have been broken down.

Neem oil works as a repellent and kills the bugs as well after a period of time. It is very useful to keep the bugs away in the first place. Try a 1-2% solution depending on the severity of the problem. Keep in mind that it won't kill the insects instantly and works over a period of time.

Tips :

A quick first emergency measure is to just take the hose and wash the insects off you plants. Another way is to hang the plants upside down into a bucket of water for two hours. Use two sticks to hold the root-ball on the bucket. This of course only works for smaller plants.

Another organic way to deal with pests is the use of beneficial insects. This is a very efficient and an environmental friendly way of dealing with this problem. You order the insects online and release them onto your plants upon arrival. The most popular ones are Lady Bug larvae or Green Lacewings for controlling greenflies. They just eat away on the pests until they are all gone!

Fungi and bacteria attack plants that are planted too closely or are kept too moist. Both problems can be solved easily by allowing more air in between the plants and reducing the watering.

Believe it or not but milk is a very effective way to treat fungi like mildew. Mix one part of milk to nine parts of water and spray it onto the foliage once a week. Very cheap, not poisonous and very effective!

How To Look After Your Herbs (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 6)

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Growing herbs of course takes a little bit of effort but you are rewarded with delicious tasty and healthy greens. Herbs though need less care than a lot of flowers or vegetables. Regular watering and feeding are the most important tasks for herbs in pots.

An advantage of growing herbs in containers is that they hardly need any weeding. This is a very time consuming and labour intensive task if you grow herbs in the garden.

Herbs that you keep from year to year might need re-potting every now and again when they outgrow their pots.

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Watering Your Herbs

Herbs in containers need to be watered regularly. Believing that they like dry conditions does not release you from doing this regularly.

How do you know if your herbs need water?

If the plants are drooping it is a bit late to water. They might still recover if the compost is soaked well but this is unnecessary stress for your plants. The best thing is to press your fingers onto the compost and feel for moisture. If it feels dry you have to water!

Watering Methods:

Watering from the top:this is probably the most popular method but it might not always be the best way.

Some herbs e.g. Basil might start rotting with this watering method. The soft stems particularly of young plants tend to be susceptible to fungi and bacteria if constantly moist.

If the soil has dried out completely the water will only run over the surface of the soil and run out at the bottom of the pot. You need to soak the pot in a bucket or saucer for several hours to make it soak up the water again.

 

Watering from the bottom:place a saucer underneath the pot and fill it with water.

Let the plant soak up what it needs and discard any water that is not soaked up within 15 minutes. This method works very well if you grow your herbs indoors. If you use this method outside you have to remember to remove the saucers if you have longer periods of rain. Standing in water for longer periods of time is lethal for herbs (and most other plants!).

Tips :

Drowning is the most common cause of death in house plants. This can happen easily if you keep your plants in pots with no drainage holes in the bottom or simply water too much. The tricky thing about this is that the plants are showing symptoms of being too dry - the leaves are starting to droop...and most people think the plant is too dry and water even more! The reason for the drooping is that the roots are rotting and can't absorb the water any more.

The best time for watering is either in the morning or in the evening. You can skip of course if the weather is cool or wet. Use your green fingers to determine if your herbs need water.

 

Watering During The Winter

Don't make the mistake to forget herbs that you overwinter outside. They need some watering during dry frost free periods. Losing them during the winter is more often down to no watering and drying out than to the frost.

Also think of checking plants that you keep in the shelter of walls or under balconies. They might not get any water from the rain and need to be checked more often particularly if they are evergreen.

 

Feeding Herbs

Although herbs need less feeding than flowers and other container plants you can't completely forget about it. They need some nutrients to do well and keep producing fresh foliage for you to enjoy.

Organic fertilizers are the best for herbs. They contain less nitrogen than chemical fertilizers and also have a slow release action because they need to be transformed into plant-absorbable nutrients by the soil bacteria. That means that the nutrients are released over a period of time rather than in one go. An advantage of this is that you don't do damage to the roots as easily in the event you use too much by accident.

 

Little Miss Greenfingers Tip

Overfed herbs tend to grow a lot of soft foliage with little flavour. The key is to find the balance between too much and too little. My general recommendation would be to reduce the fertilizer amount to half the recommended dose on the pack.

Yellowing or small leaves and stunted growth is a sign of not enough nutrients...time to start a regular feeding program.

Plants that have just been potted up with fresh compost don't need to be fed for a while. Feeding is also only needed during the growing season from April to August or September depending on your local climate. Annual short lived herbs like chervil or cress don't require any feeding.

 

Repotting Herbs

Perennial herbs that you keep from year to year need to go into a larger size container when they run out of root space. The best time to do this is the spring but you can also do it later on in the summer if necessary.

Choose a pot that is a couple of inches larger than the original container. Fill the bottom of the pot with your potting soil mixture.

Remove the pot from the root-ball and place it into the centre of the new container. Make sure that the height of the top of the root-ball is correct. It shouldn't be higher or lower than before when you are finished with the job.

Fill in the soil around the root-ball and make sure to leave no pockets. Firm the soil gently with your hands.

Water the plant in well until the water runs out at the bottom of the pot. This is best done with a fine rose or sprayer so you don't wash out the soil over the edge of the pot.

This is an important last step because it firms and settles the new soil onto the roots.

After this watering procedure you might not need to water your herb for a few days. You can also skip on feeding for the next six weeks.

 

Trimming Herbs

To keep your plants bushy they might benefit from the occasional trim. If of course you use them a lot there might not be anything to trim off.

Thyme, Sage, Rosemary and Bay leaf are best pruned in the early autumn. This will prevent the plants from going bare at the base. Cut back long shoots to encourage the plant to bush out more next spring. Cut Thyme and Sage back to about a third.

Herbs that die back for the winter can be cut back to ground level. Candidates for this are Oregano, Marjoram, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Mint and Tarragon.

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Culinary Herbs Suitable For Container Growing (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 5)

 

I want to show some of my favourite herbs for container growing. I will group them into annual or biennial herbs and perennial herbs. The perennial herbs need a slightly different treatment long term in terms or re-potting, container size and feeding. We will cover this in the next chapter about general herb care.

Annual or biennial herbs will only grow for one season or maximum two like Parsley for instance before they go to seed and die off. You will get away with growing them in smaller containers.

Annual Herbs:

Basil:

This is probably my absolute favourite and a must have. This wonderful herb makes the summer for me. You can grow different flavoured and coloured varieties but in my opinion the 'Genovese' is the best one to grow with great basil flavour and big leaves.

Chervil:

This delicate looking herb has an aniseed flavour and is used for salads and soups. The seeds germinate quickly in the spring and can be sown quite thick. Chervil will be ready for cutting after 6 weeks. If you make sowings every two weeks you can harvest nearly all year round.

Coriander:

Coriander is used a lot in oriental cooking and has become very popular in the last few years. It is fairly short lived and goes to seed quickly. Sowing this herb every few weeks to have an ongoing supply is the best thing to do.

Cress:

Cress is an ideal and fast growing window sill herb. It is loved for its slightly spicy flavour for salads mainly. It germinates and grows very fast and is harvested when it is a couple of inches high. It is a great herb for children. It grows even on damp cotton wool or kitchen towels and germinates very quickly. It can be grown all year round inside and supplies healthy greens with lots of Vitamin C for the salad bowl.

Dill:

Dill is a popular herb for salad dressings, pickled cucumbers, fish or mayonnaise. It can be tricky to germinate dill so just pop some dill seeds in here and there amongst other herbs and see what happens. They will grow somewhere...!!

Parsley:

You can grow flat Parsley also called Italian Parsley or the curly one. My personal favourite is the flat leaf Parsley. It is more aromatic and has a more intense flavour.

I also like that greenflies can't hide in it as much as in the curly one!

Nasturtiums:

This is a great annual to add color to your herb garden. The big yellow, orange or red flowers are very attractive. You can eat the flowers and use them as decorations also. The leaves are edible and can be chopped into salads.

Perennial Herbs

Bay Leaf Tree:

The bay leaf is an evergreen bush or tree. For mature plants you need a big container. Bay leaf is often used for topiary and can be shaped into pyramid or ball shapes. Use the leaves dried for cooking. I use it a lot for tomato sauces, Bolognese or gravies.

Chives:

Very easy to grow and can easily be started from seed. Its spicy onion flavour is great for salads, soups, yoghurts, eggs or potatoes. Or add it to pancakes or bread and cheese!

Lemon Balm:

Lemon Balm is very easy to grow. One plant per family is usually enough because it grows quite big.

The lemon flavoured leaves are used for salads, mayonnaise, fish and teas.

Lovage:

This vigorous and hardy herb needs a good sized container. The plant goes dormant during the winter and looses all the foliage but re-grows again in the spring. It is used for salads, soups, or stews but only sparingly because of its very intense flavour.

Mint:

This is also a very vigorous grower and best grown on its own in a pot. You can get mint in many different flavours: peppermint, spearmint, ginger, orange, pineapple, apple...

Mint dies down for the winter. Plants can be split in the spring before the new growth starts. Great for teas, lamb, salad dressings and mint sauces.

Oregano And Marjoram:

These herbs need a bit of room and are best grown in wide bowls or containers. It will die away in the autumn to re-appear again in the spring. The pretty pink flowers are very decorative in the summer.

Great for pizzas, tomato sauces, meat and teas.

Rosemary:

Definitely a herb I can't be without! It adds a wonderful flavour to Mediterranian dishes, lamb, pasta and vegetables. It also has a pretty blue flower in the spring. Grow this evergreen small bush in a good sized container in a sunny spot. You can get upright and trailing varieties. They are both suitable for cooking.

Sage:

This evergreen shrub grows into a bushy plant that needs a bit of room when it is mature. They can be kept under control with pruning. Very decorative is the purple or tricolour sage. Use it for Mediterranean dishes, meat, gnocchi, pasta and teas.

Tarragon:

There are two varieties of tarragon: Russian and French.

The Russian Tarragon has less flavour but is more robust. The French one is more aromatic but not as cold tolerant. You can only propagate this one through division and not from seed.

Thyme:

This is another wonderful Mediterranean herb. This small evergreen plant needs lots of sun to develop its aromatic flavour. Add it to tomato soups and sauces, lamb, chicken, pasta or stews.

Try also a Lemon Thyme. It has a fresh lemony touch and is very aromatic.

How To Plant Herbs (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 4)

Fertilizer For Herbs

Herbs need less nutrients than a lot of other plants but particularly pot grown herbs need some feeding. If you don't feed plants that are in containers for a long period they will go poor with small leaves and little growth. Plant food diluted to half the strength and/or longer feeding intervals will keep your herbs happy and healthy.

There is a wide range of fertilizers available. I prefer organic ones for herb growing. Liquid fertilizers that you add into the water might be the easiest to use.

 

How to recognize starving plants:

It always surprises me that people don't recognize when a plant is starving. I guess I am around plants too long so it becomes second nature to judge the state of a plant.

Here are some hints to recognize when you should start feeding at the latest:

*Yellowing foliage: the new leaves are pale and yellowish in colour

*Stunted growth: the plant grows slowly or not at all, the leaves are small

*Bare plants:the plants start to go bare at the base and lose foliage

 

Growing Herbs From Seed

If you like to cook with fresh herbs you more than likely need a good supply of them. Nothing is handier than to just go outside the door to harvest them fresh and full of flavour.

Once you are used to that you won't want to cook without ready access. Particularly if you need big quantities of certain herbs and a constant supply it is best to plant herbs from seed. Growing herbs from seeds is also the cheapest way to produce herb plants.

In general you can grow all types of herbs from seed but it might not always make sense. Growing Rosemary, Sage or Thyme might take a long time before you can harvest from them. You also need only a few plants to have enough supply. For these types of herbs it might be easier and quicker to buy an established plant in your local nursery. Other varieties like Parsley, Chives, Basil or Coriander are easily and quickly grown from seed.

The best and most successful way of growing herbs from seeds is to start them off in seed trays and pots in a greenhouse or poly-tunnel. But if you don't have a greenhouse you can also start them off on a window-sill or conservatory.

 

How To Plant Herbs From Seeds

For Growing Herbs From Seeds You Need:

* herb seeds

* seed compost

* seed trays

* sheet of glass to cover trays (optional)

* small plastic pots or peat pots

* watering can with a fine rose

1. Prepare the seed tray:

Fill the seed tray with the seed compost, level it and firm it lightly. Don't fill the tray up to the top. Leave about 1/4 inch from the top and water over it with the rose on the watering can.

2. Spread the seeds:

Pour the seeds onto the palm of your hand. Take some between thumb and index finger and sow them thinly and evenly onto the prepared seed tray. Try not to put them too close together.

3. Cover the seeds:

Put some fine seed compost into a plastic flower pot with holes in the bottom. Shake the compost evenly over the seeds. Bigger seeds need a thicker layer of compost than small seeds.

The rule of thumb is to cover them with three times the thickness of the seed. The seed packet will give you exact information on this. Some plants will need light for germination and need no covering. The same applies for very fine seed.

Water the tray with the fine rose on the watering can again.

4. Cover the tray

with a sheet of glass or clear plastic. This step eliminates watering, speeds up germination and keeps pests away. If you don't cover the tray you will have to water carefully and keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet). Once the seedlings emerge remove the glass. Place the tray in a shaded spot in the greenhouse or in your house. It is important to choose a place that is evenly warm and bright but not sunny.

5. Transplant the seedlings:

Once the seedlings have produced their second sets of leaves it is time to thin them out and transplant them into individual pots. Fill the pots with seed compost and poke a hole into it that is big enough for the roots. Loosen the soil in a corner of the tray and lift the seedlings out carefully. Insert the roots into the prepared hole, fill it up with compost and firm it carefully. Water well and don't forget to label your pots!

6. Harden them off before planting them out.

Grow your new herb plants on, until they are big enough to go into their final positions. You can either plant them into the ground or into pots, window-boxes, etc.

It is important to prepare your seedling for the life outside. The easiest way to do that is to move the plants into a cold frame that you leave uncovered during the day and covered over night for a period of two to three weeks. If you don't have a cold frame you can just put them outside the greenhouse for the day and bring them in again at night. Don't place them into full sun in the beginning.

7. Plant the herbs into their final position in the garden or into containers for your patio or window sill herb garden.

Stuff You Need For Container Herb Gardening (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 3)

Containers:

There is a vast variety of pots available. Styles and materials vary and you have to pick what suits your needs and fits in with your design.

Tips

The bigger the pot the better the plants will grow. So choose the pots as large as you can. Minimum size should be not smaller than 8 or 9 inches in diameter. Small annual herbs can go into smaller pots.

It is also easier to keep plants watered in larger containers. A large pot will reward you with bigger, healthier plants that will produce more foliage and flowers than a plant in a small pot that runs out of root space, water and nutrients frequently. These plants are stressed permanently and don't thrive.

Which is the best pot material?

Unglazed clay pots are the choice of most herb growers because a lot of herbs prefer a dry and well draining soil. This material is porous and the water can evaporate through the clay.

In plastic pots the water can only evaporate through the surface of the potting soil. These pots are suitable for the more moisture loving herbs like chives or parsley.

Make sure that all the containers you use have drainage holes at the bottom. Check your pots regularly and make sure that they did not get clogged. If your herbs sit in water for a prolonged time they will for sure die! The roots will start rotting and you won't be able to save the plants.

 

Potting Soil

Herbs prefer a rather poor and well draining soil. You can use a seed compost and ideally mix in some sand, gravel and compost to improve the drainage. Seed composts are lower in nutrients than regular potting soil mixtures.

Make Your Own Soil Mixture

You can't just use garden soil and put it into a pot because it will turn into something like a clump that resembles rock rather than soil. No plant will be happy with that!

If you can get hold of some good garden soil that is not too heavy you can mix it with sand, peat and compost. This will make a suitable mixture for herbs. Depending on whether the herbs need a richer or poorer soil you can vary the amount of compost. Use about 1/3 of compost for poorer mixtures and 2/3 for a richer mix. Make sure to mix everything well.

Growing Herbs Indoors (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 2)

Growing Herbs Indoors

Having no outdoor space is no excuse for not growing herbs. All you need is a sunny window sill or a very bright corner somewhere. The smaller herbs like parsley or chives don't take up a lot of space and can be grown anywhere.

Conservatories or sunny porches are of course also ideal for this purpose. If you don't have ideal light conditions you can help your herbs with some horticultural grow lights as an additional light source. This is particularly useful during the dull winter months.

Soft leggy growth is a sign of not enough light. Plants kept in conditions like that are weak and more prone to diseases and pests.

Tips to Maximize Your Window Space:

Use hanging baskets or a hanging window shelf. This can double your growing space and allows for plenty of light for all the herbs. The use of grow lights for plants allows you to grow herbs indoors even if the light conditions are not ideal.

Here is a list of herbs that are suitable for growing indoors:

  • Basil
  • Bay Leaf
  • Chives
  • Cress
  • Dill
  • Lemon Balm
  • Marjoram
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Tarragon
  • Thyme

Where To Grow Your Herbs (Growing Culinary Herbs In Containers Series – Part 1)

Where To Grow Your Herbs

Growing herbs in containers allows you to grow them nearly anywhere even if you don't have a garden. Patios, decks, balconies or rooftop gardens are ideal places for herb growing. And if you don't have that you just grow them indoors on the sunniest window sill you have.
Cultivating herb plants in pots and containers allows you to produce a large amount of herbs in small areas. You will be surprised what you will be able to harvest.
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Making The Most Of Small Spaces
If you don't have a lot of room, you want to make the most of what you have to be able to grow many different herb varieties.
Tips
Use steps, chairs, benches or stairs to arrange your herb containers. Place the sun loving herbs on top and the more shade tolerant at the bottom. You can also use a shelf and arrange your herbs on it. Window-boxes make use of the window sills and can hold quite a few different herbs which will also look decorative particularly if you combine them with some flowering plants.
Hanging baskets also help to make the most of small spaces. Small and bushy herbs that will hang over the edges are ideal for them. Try different varieties of thyme mixed with alpine strawberries in your hanging baskets.
 
What is the best aspect for herb growing?
A lot of herbs are of Mediterranean origin and like a lot of sun and heat. A south-facing aspect is ideal for them. Shaded areas on the north side of buildings and windy places are not suitable for growing herbs. Try to find a sheltered spot near a wall or protect them with other plants.
Herbs that like a south facing aspect:
Basil
Bay Leaf
Chives
Dill
Lemon Balm
Lovage
Marjoram
Mint
Oregano
Rosemary
Sage
Tarragon
Thyme
Some plants don't like too much heat and are better off with an east or west facing aspect.


Herbs that are suitable for an east or west facing aspect:
Bay Leaf
Chives
Cress
Lovage
Parsley
Mint

Credit to : blog.yourgardeningtools.com